Garmin Edge 810 GPS Cycle Computer

Top Features Of The Garmin Edge 810 GPS Cycle Computer

The touchscreen Edge 810 is designed for the cyclist who wants it all — navigation and advanced training capabilities in 1 device. The unit is rugged, waterproof and has a 17 hour battery life.

Unit dimensions, WxHxD: 5.1 x 9.3 x 2.5cm

Display size, WxH: 3.6 x 5.5cm, diag (6.6cm)

Display resolution, WxH: 160 x 240 pixels, touchscreen

Touchscreen: yes

Weight: 3.5oz (98g)

Battery: rechargeable lithium-ion

Battery life: up to 17 hours

Water resistant: yes (IPX7)

GPS-enabled: yes

High-sensitivity receiver: yes

Basemap: yes

Ability to add maps: yes

Accepts data cards: microSD™ card

History: up to 180 hours

Waypoints/favourites/locations: 200

Routes: Limited by memory space available

Additional:

Operating temperature: -20°C to +55°C

Connected features via a smartphone: yes

GLONASS: no

Compatible with Garmin Connect™ Mobile: yes

Delivered in the box

Edge 810

Bike mount

USB cable

UK AC charger

Manual

• MTB
• Road

Purpose-Built Bike Computer
There's no better bike computer to guide your ride. Edge 810 is rugged, waterproof and has a 17-hour battery life. The touchscreen is easy to operate, even with a gloved finger and when wet. Mounting options include a new out-front mount (Sold separately) for heads-up positioning and a standard quarter-turn mount.

This Is Your Edge
The Edge 810 offers connected features through your compatible Android or Apple device including live tracking, social media sharing and weather. The 810 is compatible with optional detailed street or Ordnance Survey® maps so it can guide your ride for touring, commuting or extended activities where you might need onboard maps and navigation. Because it's GPS-enabled, Edge 810 provides accurate data and navigation capabilities anywhere in the world.

Track Every Detail
In addition to the mapping capabilities, Edge 810 records your distance, speed metrics, ascent/descent, grade and more. It's also compatible with ANT+™ sensors that measure your heart rate, speed/cadence and power when paired with third-party ANT+ power meter(Heart rate, speed/cadence sensor sold separately). The activity profiles feature allows you to customise data fields and device settings based on cycling activity such as road, mountain or touring. Switch profiles with a simple swipe of the touchscreen and your device will be set up to show the data you need for that ride.

Get Connected
Edge 810 offers a suite of connected features when paired with your smartphone (Apple® or Android™) and the Garmin Connect Mobile app. This allows you to gain comprehensive and accurate ride data from a dedicated device while saving your phone battery. The Edge tracks the data and sends it to your phone using a Bluetooth® connection. Stay connected and share all the details of your ride with friends, family and your social media contacts. You can post an update immediately after your ride or race with details from your completed activity. You'll create your posts via your smartphone, and the ride data's already there thanks to the interface with Garmin Connect Mobile.

Live Tracking
The live tracking feature allows your friends and family to follow your races and training activities in real time. Invite followers using email or social media so they can view your live data on a Garmin Connect tracking page. Once they get your email invite, they can click to follow and see your stats and location on the map.

Weather
Get real-time weather conditions, forecasts and alerts directly on the Edge 810 when it's paired with your smartphone and the Garmin Connect Mobile app. This feature is useful for extended rides, and it lets you keep your smartphone safe and dry while the weather data you need is at your fingertips.

Wireless Data Transfers
Now you can instantly store, share and analyse every detail of your ride. The Garmin Connect Mobile app allows for wireless uploads of completed activities from your device as soon as you finish recording an activity. You choose whether activities are automatically or manually uploaded. Once your ride has posted to Garmin Connect, your own "connections" can view them. You can also search your courses and workouts stored at Garmin Connect, download to your smartphone, then send directly to your Edge 810 — wirelessly. You can then navigate to the start of the course and use the Virtual Partner® feature on your Edge to race your previous activities in real time. Future release of Garmin Connect Mobile will allow you to explore and download courses and workouts from other Garmin Connect users.

About GPS Cycle Computers

GPS receivers are now made waterproof, lightweight and small enough to fit on a bike easily. There are 2 basic choices to take on your bike: a GPS unit designed primarily for navigation with a dedicated bike mount, particularly suitable for cycle touring and finding your way in unfamiliar territory, like the Garmin eTrex Vista Cx; or a dedicated bike computer that uses GPS to track your training routes and provide detailed analysis of your workout like the Edge 305, with more limited navigation capabilities. Most units come with only very basic maps installed and you may need to purchase more detailed maps for your area to be loaded onto the unit for navigation.

All electrical goods sold on wiggle that come with a mains power supply are supplied with a UK plug. Please check the product description to see if any other plugs are known to be included in the box, otherwise you may need an adapter for use in your country. Most power adapters will accept 110-240 Volts.

About The Garmin Brand

Garmin International Inc. manufactures and markets navigation and communications equipment for the aviation and consumer markets such as the popular Garmin Edge mountain bike and road bike GPS range. Garmin products serve aviation, marine, automotive, wireless, OEM, and general recreation applications. Specifically Garmin aim to enrich the lives of customers, suppliers, distributors, and employees by providing the very best products that offer superior quality, safety, and operational features at affordable prices. What started out in 1989 with a handful of dedicated engineers and a great idea for a product has grown into the Global Positioning System (GPS) leader–both in sales and critical acclaim. Garmin has helped to take GPS to new heights by going beyond the ordinary features and performance found in typical GPS receivers. Today, Garmin has a diverse product line and distributors in virtually every part of the world. While garmin's immediate success has resulted from developing innovative products for a variety of markets, their long-term success is based on commitment to support customers after the sale. They are winning over new customers with quality products, tremendous value, and superior service, and are working to turn them into loyal Garmin supporters for many years to com

Lynskey Helix OS Ltd Edt - Only 30 Frames all over the world

Helix OS Limited Edition SRAM Red With Enve 2.0 And Zipp Service Course Cockpit

Quick Overview

Only 30 of these will be produced. This Limited Edition Helix OS has a paint job that matches the New 2013 SRAM Red Group exactly. Each frame will be personally signed under the clearcoat by David Lynskey and given the special edition number for example "1 of 30".

The Helix OS takes our signature Helix tube set and adds current component design elements to create one of the most exciting road race frames for 2012. By adding a SRAM Pressfit 30 bottom bracket to this frame (which requires BB30 cranks), we have increased stiffness for maximum power transfer. We have also increased the headtube diameter for more responsive handling and to accept a Cane Creek 110 ZS 44mm headset. Our proven Pro Competition geometry can be found on this top level race frame allowing for an aggressive riding position. The combination of these features make the Helix OS the pinnacle of our road racing lineup.
At first glance you will notice the spiral shaped tube design that adds significant stiffness to the structural integrity of the tube without adding additional weight. The HELIX shaped tubeset provides the rider with the highest overall balance of performance characteristics with the least amount of compromise that you are forced to expect in many other frame designs.
Different forces occur when braking, accelerating, climbing and descending. It was our challenge to create a tubeset that best handles all of these various force vectors and create a harmonious balance between them with minimal compromise. More force can be applied to the frame without any loss in pedal efficiency or sacrifice in performance. Not to mention the unmatched durability that only titanium can offer. No longer do you have to sacrifice handling or performance strictly for weight savings.

This Build Includes

• Limted Edition Helix OS with 2013 SRAM Red Graphics Scheme Paint
• Enve 2.0 Carbon Fiber Fork (upgradable)
• Cane Creek 110 ZeroStack Headset Black
• New SRAM Red Aero Glide Rear Derailluer
• New SRAM Red YAW Front Derailleur
• New SRAM Red Crankset with Ceramic Bearings
• New SRAM Red Aero Link Brakes
• New SRAM Red Ergo Dynamic Levers
• New SRAM OG-1090 X-DOME 11x26 Casette
• New SRAM PC 1091R 10S Chain
• Zipp Service Course SL Handlebar
• Zipp Service Course SL Stem
• Zipp Service Course SL Seat Post 27.2x350mm
• Mavic Ksyrium Elite Wheelset (Upgradeable)
• Michelin Pro4 Tires
• Selle Italia Max SLR Gel Flow Saddle

Technique: Uphill battle

The brutal simplicity of climbing is one of its most appealing aspects. It’s you and your bike versus the hill. You push the pedals, you breathe hard and you make your ascent.

On the inside it’s a different story. Your body is stretched to extremes, dozens of physiological processes pushed further than at any other time as your bike strains underneath you. Whether you hate hills or crave cols, understanding what your body and bike endure can only make you a better climber.

Body language

As the road heads up, a whole chain of physiological responses will follow as your body works harder to counter the forces of gravity. Your muscles have to burn more energy using oxygen from your blood, your heart rate and breathing rate have to increase to deliver the extra oxygen needed, and you’ll get hot, sweaty and flushed as your body temperature increases and blood is diverted closer to the skin to radiate away heat.

Push really hard and the work in your muscles will produce more of the by-product lactic acid than your body can process. Your body can’t keep up with the workload anymore, and  you’ll soon be crashing into your anaerobic threshold. The speed at which you can climb before these processes reach their limit is down to how fit you are, and your power-to-weight ratio.

Weight for it

“Power-to-weight ratio is the first and probably the most important determinant of being a good climber,” says Dr Garry Palmer of Sportstest. Heavier, less fit riders have to do much more work and meet physiological limits much sooner. You need more power and less weight, and that’s for the bike and rider combined.

“In terms of body composition, lean is the goal,” says Dr Palmer, “you don’t want to drop muscle mass unless you’re bulky up top.” In terms of healthy weight loss targets, you shouldn’t aim to lose more than a pound a week. As long as you achieve weight loss via a combination of healthy, low-fat food choices and the right kind of training, this is the best way to extend your ability before hitting your thresholds.

Know your limits

Your anaerobic threshold is the point at which the exhaled volume of carbon dioxide (VCO2) is greater than the inhaled volume of oxygen (VO2). The maximum amount of oxygen the body can consume during exercise is your VO2 max. They both happen at a similar intensity, but they’re not the same thing. A high threshold and VO2 max make up the second of Palmer’s three factors for climbing: “They dictate your sustainable climbing ability, the rate you can hold up a long climb and, theoretically at least, until you run out of energy reserves,” he says.

“Thresholds vary massively between individuals,” says Dr Palmer,“ but testing reveals your true metabolic threshold. A lab test uses continuous gas composition analysis to monitor the balance of carbon dioxide (CO2) and oxygen (O2) in exhaled breath. Once analysed, lab test results will tell you how to train better, by helping you set training intensity zones. This way you can target the duration and intensity of riding in training in order to achieve your goals, and it will give you valuable pacing information,” he explains.

Don’t pull, pedal

Turning the pedals round from in the saddle uses the same muscles whether you’re plummeting towards the Earth’s core or climbing into the stratosphere. When climbing, it can be particularly tempting to try to pull on the return stroke, but this is a mistake according to cycling coach Dr Auriel Forrester of Scientific Coaching: “Pulling up on the pedals decreases power output as it interferes with the all-important downstroke on the other side – specifically, you can’t pull up against gravity at the same rate or same force as you can push down with gravity!”

As you push down on the pedal – the power stroke – you engage your glutes, quads and calves. The upward – or return stroke – switches the stress to the hamstrings, ankle dorsiflexor and the hip flexors. Since your quads are a lot stronger than your hamstrings, try to concentrate on not doing anything that could detract from the downward power stroke.

Spin and win

The big ring is not for climbing. It’s one thing to grunt and strain your way to the top of a short local climb in a massive gear for a challenge against a riding mate, but spinning is far more effective. Dr Forrester explains: “It depends on the rider and the terrain, but a pedalling cadence of around 72-82rpm is optimum – lower on steeper or longer climbs, higher on shorter climbs. You need to choose gearing that allows you to maintain this cadence.”

Selecting the smaller ring sooner saves you making the change on a steep section when you risk dropping the chain. It also enables you to use the more closely packed sprockets, letting you fine-tune your ratio to suit the gradient and maintain a good cadence.

Experiment with lower gears and a higher cadence on a familiar climb to feel the benefit, then apply that technique everywhere. Using a heart- rate monitor with a cadence sensor - or in conjunction with a manual count of your pedal strokes from one foot in a minute - will help you be more precise. A power meter is the ultimate tool for this job, since it can show your cadence and output together for any point of your ride, and you will quickly discover the speed at which your engine performs best on any particular climb.

Pace yourself

“Too many riders go off too hard at the bottom of a climb because they feel fresh and their heart rate is low,” says Dr Forrester. ”Then they dip too far into their metabolic red zone, start to produce lactic acid faster than the muscles can clear it, and then they fatigue and fade before the top of the climb. Furthermore, climbing in the red uses energy nearly 10 times faster than climbing aerobically, which has clear implications on a longer route.”          

Discipline yourself when you feel strong. Save some power for later in the ride and blow away your mates on the last climb of the day. A heart rate monitor with an alarm is a good watchdog.

“An ascent of 20-45mins should be climbed at around a rider’s threshold,” says Dr Forrester, “or the level of effort at which conversation becomes difficult.”

Hard core

The need for good core stability increases when out of the saddle, so a strong lower back and abs are important. You need to anchor your power, so a core like a soggy noodle just won’t cut it.

“You use the core muscles to maintain a solid platform for the legs to work against,” says Dr Forrester. That doesn’t mean you have to be able to do 100 sit-ups. The important thing is that you can ride and climb as long and hard as you want to without your back ever feeling tired.

Give extra thought to this before taking on a significantly harder challenge than you have previously ridden, such as a sportive, or if you’re training seriously for the first time. Do core stability exercises using a ball to stretch and work your lower back through its full range. Add abdominal crunches to give your central pillar of strength a good workout.

Brain training

There’s a vast range of ideas on how to think yourself faster, such as goal visualisation and breaking down the task. But for climbing it all boils down to one thing – handling the suffering.

“The ability to suffer is mental,” says Dr Palmer. “With no data, you can only listen to the signals from your body. But with heart rate and power output information you can put efforts in the context of previous climbs and know for certain that, even if it hurts like crazy, you can sustain your pace.”

At the very least invest in a heart rate monitor so that you can arm yourself with comparative data. You’ll soon find the heart rates at which you can sustain a climb, even if your body is telling you to stop and have a sit down. Armed with that data-driven confidence, you can employ the one-hairpin-at-a-time techniques to just keep going!

Upright citizen

Excessive side-to-side swinging of the bike when you’re out of the saddle is a waste of energy, and it disrupts efficient pedalling. You only need to counter the leverage created by your bike’s Q-factor – the distance between your pedals. Stay smooth and focus on getting all your energy into the back wheel.

Instead of muscling the bike around, think about providing just enough resistance through the bar to counter the pedalling leverage so that the bike stays nearly upright.

Maxing out

You can briefly push past your VO2 max and anaerobic threshold until you reach one of the real limits of physical endurance – maximum heart rate or anaerobic tolerance. If you’re already working hard when you hit the throttle, you’re likely to reach your maximum heart rate and then have nothing more to give. If you launch a sprint from a steady pace then your muscles are more likely to be swamped in lactic acid and your tolerance exhausted before your heart rate gets near its maximum.

Nearly all these processes are automatic, but there are some things you can do to assist them. You can help control your temperature by removing a gilet for instance, so that valuable oxygen-carrying blood flow isn’t diverted to your skin. Even more critically, you can control your breathing, as it’s vital to remember to take full breaths and not just short gasps. You can also control your pedalling to get the most for your effort.

“Pedalling in fluid circles with a fast cadence is the third critical factor to better climbing,” says Dr Garry Palmer. “You might combine the power of a train and the weight of a paper napkin, but all this means nothing if you stamp on the pedals like children jumping in puddles.”

It's also about the bike

What does the bike go through when climbing, and what makes one bike climb better than another? Who better to ask than Trek? This is a manufacturer with 11 Grand Tour wins - ridden by climbers like Contador and Armstrong - and a company with a huge R&D budget.

If you think you suffer up a steep climb, spare a thought for your bike. “Our testing shows that high loads in low gears and at low RPMs place the highest loads on a frame. It’s the hardest thing a bike has to endure,” says Chris Pomering, composite road chief engineer at Trek.

Stuff all-out stiffness

Doug Cusack, senior R&D engineer at Trek, says that correctly tuned stiffness is the key. “Producing a frame that has the right amount of stiffness allows the frame to flex in a beneficial way that can help a rider to develop a smooth rhythm.”

Conventional thinking says that lighter and stiffer is better, but this isn’t so says Pomering: “Rider feedback has driven us to maintain a specific bottom bracket stiffness rather than maximising it.”

The strain on the bike

“The rear triangle has a larger effect during a seated climb, but ultimately the entire frame contributes,” says Pomering. “During a standing climb, the down-tube undergoes lateral bending at the front near the head-tube and at the rear by the BB, as well as, to a lesser degree, torsion (twist) through the length of the tube.”

Choosing The Right Sized Bike

Making sure you choose the correct frame size is of paramount importance when buying a new bike. The correct fitting bike will be more comfortable, more efficient and more fun to ride.
We know that choosing the right sized bike can be a confusing experience, even for the most experienced cyclists – the right size frame depends on the type of bike, your height your riding style and your preference.
This guide gives our customers general advice on choosing the right sized bike. It is a guide only and we always recommend visiting one of our stores.
How are bike frames measuredBike sizes are determined by the frame size, based on the length of the seat tube. Most manufact
Unfortunately, some manufacturers measure their models from the intersection of the top tube and seat post to the crank axle, which can throw out some of the sizings, so if ever in doubt consult one of our experts in our sales team or in store.
Manufacturers quote sizes in different ways, some quote the size in centimetres, some in inches and some as a frame size (such as Small, Medium, Large, etc).
Although the size of frames are based on the measurement of the seat tube, it’s not just the seat tube that changes depending on the size – the entire frame changes in proportion to the frame size.
Matching you to the right size bike – what’s your height?To help our customers choose the right size bike we provide a suggested height for the various frame sizes available.
In order to accurately match the correct frame to your height it’s essential you measure your height accurately!
To best measure your height, stand against a wall with your shoes off. Keep your legs together and your shoulders back. Carefully place a pencil on top of your head and mark the wall – for best results get a helper to mark the wall for you. Then measure the mark on the wall with a tape measure.
If your height is on the cusp of the range your reach is often the deciding factor in which size to go for. To find out if you have a short or long reach measure your Ape Index (your arm span minus your height) – if you have a positive ape index then go for the larger size, if you have a negative ape index go for the smaller size.
Stand over heightStand over height is the clearance between the top of the top tube (also known as a cross bar) and the bottom of your crotch. It’s important that you have adequate clearance in this area to avoid contact when you’re stopped and astride the bike. For road and hybrid bikes 1 to 2 inches of clearance is required, mountain bikes require 2 to 4 inches.
The sizes we recommend in our sizing charts take stand over height into consideration. So if you’ve got a close to average inside leg measurement our recommendations will be fine.
Mountain bike sizing chart (hardtail & full suspension)

Rider Height		Frame Size Suggested
Feet and Inches	Centimetres	Inches	Size
4' 10" - 5' 2"	148 - 158	13 - 14	XS
5' 2" - 5 '6"	158 - 168	15 - 16	S
5' '6" - 5' 10"	168 - 178	17 - 18	M
5' 10" - 6' 1"	178 - 185	19 - 20	L
6' 1" - 6' 4"	185 - 193	21 - 22	XL
6 '4" - 6' 6"	193 - 198	23 - 24	XXL

Training: 10 simple steps to your ideal cycling weight

By Cycling Plus

Reaching your target weight is one of the best ways to get more from training. Henry Furniss, personal trainer and co-founder of Wyndymilla Bespoke Cycling, uses diet and nutrition alongside his limited exercise time to keep in peak physical condition. We spoke to him for his top tips for losing weight and getting lean.

1 Do the maths

“Most people have a clearly defined weight at which they can perform without compromise,” says Furniss. Eliminate guesswork: find a health professional who can measure body fat using callipers. “The right target can then be set, accounting for lean gains as well as fat loss.”

2 Prepare well

“Plan the date you’re going to start your new regime,” says Furniss. “Give yourself at least a week to psych up and think through the logistics of the changes you’ll make.”

3 Eat well

“Don’t think of your quest as a diet,” Furniss continues. “The right foods will usually have higher nutrient values but a lower calorie density.” It’s simply a case of eating the right types of food, such as fruit, vegetables, lean meats and fish.

4 Structure meals

“Many people eat very little for breakfast or just skip it completely,” says Furniss. “We’d be a much leaner nation if breakfast was king and the evening meal light. As much as 40 per cent of your calorie intake should be consumed in the morning.” Avoid starchy foods like bread, rice and pasta in the evening.

5 Drink more

“Stay hydrated. This is key if your body is going to react with greatest effect to all your efforts,” says Furniss. He suggests drinking herbal liquids to stave off hunger as your body adjusts to smaller evening meals: “Teas like peppermint or ginger top up your hydration and also aid digestion.”

6 Be realistic

Set out the right training targets. “Less is more, especially for us busy folk,” says Furniss. “Go for three solid sessions rather than aiming for five and feeling bad if you miss one. I maintain my elite licence on three hours of training a week, give or take.”

7 Self-motivate

“Get goal driven,” says Furniss. “It’s a cliché, but consistency is key.” Whatever your aim is, put it in a diary. It'll give you the drive you need to avoid the muffins.

8 Add wisely

“Don’t shy away from supplementation,” says Furniss. Getting what you need from a natural balanced diet can be hard with a job, family and training. Essential fats and recovery drinks can boost weight loss and keep immune responses up.

9 Hit the sack

“Overtraining is normally just a case of under resting,” Furniss explains. “Without enough sleep our ability to remain disciplined and focused is severely compromised. Seven to nine hours is ideal.”

10 Get support

“Social pressures can put strain on your health kick,” says Furniss. “The last thing you need is breakfast-skipping vultures circling you with pizzas and beer late at night. Get them on board.”  

Looking Good

Let's be honest, as well as improving our power-to-weight ratio and cycling performance, losing weight and toning up has the added benefit of making us easier on the eye. Henry Furniss gives us his body fat percentage guide to looking good naked…

18% or more: With your clothes on, you look overweight.

16-18%: You look like you hold no excess weight when fully clothed.

15%: Starting to look good naked.

13%: You won’t be compromising performance due to excess body fat.

10%: Somebody’s resembling the Michelangelo statue…

5-8%: Ripped to bits; the optimal level at which all top level, in-form male endurance athletes perform.

LAPIERRE ZESTY 741 EI - New Arrival 2013 model

LAPIERRE ZESTY 714 EI

When MTBs are ridden as intended – for mountain biking – they need to be versatile : rip technical trails in total confidence, challenge that next big drop, fly up… and down the steepest, gnarliest runs. With the versatile Trail and All Mountain bikes from Lapierre, you’ll be at ease on any kind of mountain trail.

In 2013, the new Zesty gets bold and expresses its playful side in descents. The bike gets a new geometry: a shorter seat tube assists in use of dropper post, longer chainstays, stiffer bottom bracket and head tube for increased versatility and to maximize the ride. Its ultra light carbon or alloy OST 140 mm frame is e:i shock compatible and has internal cable routing. Other improvements include a 12x142 thru-axle, 150 mm Fork and components designed to take on the entire mountain: 710 mm handlebar, Schwalbe Nobby Nic tyres, 180 mm Formula brakes…

From technical Marathons to your Enduro debut, you can do almost everything with your Zesty. Let it rip!

PRODUCT MODEL YEAR: (2013)

PRODUCT OPTIONS: 41cm ,

45cm ,

49cm ,

54cm 

Spec: •Colours: Black/Red

•Sizes: 41cm, 44cm, 49cm, 54cm

•Frame: Zesty 714 Full Carbon OST+ 

140mm

•Fork: Rock Shox Monarch e:i shock

•Rear Shock: MAVIC New Crosstrail

•Wheels: EASTON EA70

•Front Tyre: SCHWALBE Rocket Ron 

Evo 26x2.25 TR

•Rear Tyre: SCHWALBE Rocket Ron 

Evo 26x2.25 TR

•Shifters: SHIMANO KSLM780 XT 

2x10 speed

•Front Derailleur: SHIMANO 

KFDM675E26X New SLX 10 speed

•Rear Derailleur: SHIMANO 

RDM986DGS New XTR Shadow + 10 

speed

•Chainset: SHIMANO FCM785 XT 

24x38 Hollowtech II 10 Speed

•Cassette: SHIMANO KCSM771 XT 

11x36 10 speed

•Chain: Not Specified

•Bottom Bracket: SHIMANO Press Fit 

KSMBB7141A

•Front Brake: FORMULA R1S 180mm

•Rear Brake: FORMULA R1S 180mm

•Brake Levers: FORMULA R1S

•Saddle: FIZIK GOBI XM

•Seat Post: ROCKSHOX Reverb 

Stealth 31.6x355mm 100mm travel

•Handlebars: EASTON Haven 

31.8x20x711mm

•Grips: Not Specified

•Stem: THOMSON X4 0° 31.8 Sizes S, 

M : 70mm • Sizes L, XL : 90mm

•Headset: PT F11 Tapered 1 1/8-1.5’’

•Pedals: Not Specified

•Extras: Not Specified

•Weight: Not Specified

How To Buy

Jika anda berminat untuk membeli sepeda dan aksesoris sepeda kami
anda tinggal menghubungi no : 085313029700 (Whatsapp), dan 74ef0bc6

Bagi anda yang ingin membeli langsung saja ke hubungi kami, isi SMS atau mengisi form

dan format pesan sebagai berikut :

*Nama*

*Barang Yang diinginkan*

*Banyak barang*

*alamat dan kota*

*no hp*

contoh:

Rino Pratama

Sepeda Polygon MTB

1

Jalan. ABC no.8 /Bandung

085313029700

if you not in indonesia, you can buy our product from Amazon, thanks For your kindness.

Tips Merawat Sepeda Anda

Sepeda, Sebuah kendaraan yang akhir-akhir ini menjadi eksis karena isu pemanasan global yang semakin parah. Penggunaan sepeda semakin merebak dan menjadi tren diberbagai tempat. Namun tidak termasuk kota saya :(. Disana masih banyak sekali para pengguna sepeda motor, pengendara sepeda hanyalah kaum minoritas. Semoga aja nantinya banyak yang sadar untuk menaiki  sepesa ya. Termasuk admin(lagi nabung dari blog buat beli sepeda :)

Nah, bagi pengendara ataupun bagi siapapun yang memiliki sepeda, saya rasa tips kali ini penting dan sebaiknya dibaca oleh mereka, karena seperti kendaraan lainnya, sepeda juga membutuhkan perawatan agar tetap kuat sehingga tahan lama. Tanpa memperpanjang muqaddimah, langsung saja berikut tips merawat sepeda.

1. Pertama, jika agan hendak mencuci sepeda agan, Janganlah mencuci sepeda dengan air bertekanan tinggi. Sebenernya nggapapa sih untuk beberapa bagian, tapi hindari BB dan Hubs, juga kabel rem dan shifter yang ‘telanjang’.hindari BB dan Hubs, juga kabel rem dan shifter yang ‘telanjang’.
2. Jangan melumasi menggunakan WD-40 atau sejenis penetran lainnya. Kenapa? Karena penetran tersebut  meluruhkan dan mengencerkan gemuk/grease di sepeda, walhasil benda-benda bergerak tersebut bisa aus karena greasenya hilang.
3. Lumasi secara berkala kabel-kabel rem dan shifter serta rantai. Rantai yang kering selain berisik, juga bisa mengikis gear.
4. Periksa tekanan ban. Nah ini sering dilupakan, ban luar biasanya ada keterangan mengenai tekanan minimum dan maksimum. Tekanan terlalu rendah membuat berat digowes dan ban cenderung lebih mudah kempes tertusuk benda ataupun kempes karena ban dalem terlipat.
5. Periksa kelurusan rim/velg. Rim/velg yang peyang sehingga goyang bisa menghambat putaran roda, terutama yang tidak menggunakan discbrake karena velg/rim tadi menggerus kampas rem.
6. Cek kekencangan baut as roda (quick release bagi yang menggunakan) . Fatal nih bila roda lepas tiba2 ketika jalan!! Coba goyang kiri-kanan roda, kencangkan bila longgar. Oiya roda oblak juga bisa akibat baut pengencang bearing (cup & cone/pelor) longgar.
7. Cek apakah kinerja peranti pemindah gigi (shifter, RD, FD) bagus. Bahaya sih ngga, tapi kalo gigi loncat2 sangat mengganggu tuh.. setel aja, bisa dibawa ke bengkel2 terdekat atau setel sendiri juga bisa.
8. Semua part bergerak di sepeda hampir ada masa pakainya. Jangan ragu untuk mengganti part2 tersebut bila sudah aus atau rusak. Safety first ya.
9. Atur jarak main rem. Terlalu ‘dalam’ bisa2 ngga ngerem kalo ada motor motong jalan, terlalu ‘dangkal’ kampas rem riskan bergesek dengan velg atau rotor (discbrake) dan mudah ngunci bila panic braking. Kalo tuas rem anda memiliki fitur ‘reach adjuster’, atur tuas rem tersebut berada pada buku jari kedua jari pengereman anda. Hal ini mengoptimalkan kekuatan jari ketika mengerem.
10. Karet handle grip sepeda wajib mencengkeram stang anda dengan kuat, jangan sampai ketika gowes karet grip tersebut mudah lepas. Kalo lagi ngerem mendadak karetnya copot bisa2 bibir dower tuh nyium aspal.
11. Posisikan barang bawaan anda (ransel, tas, kresek, dll) dengan baik sehingga ngga mengganggu gerakan tubuh saat menggowes, kalo bisa letakkan di sepeda dan bukan di tubuh. Hal ini sangat berpengaruh terhadap reaksi pesepeda menghadapi medan. Selain juga bikin pegel kalo bawa barang di badan..
12. Atur posisi tinggi sadel dan tinggi handle post (bagi seli) di posisi yang ‘benar’ bukan di posisi yang ‘nyaman’. Lagi2 ini berpengaruh terhadap reaksi pesepeda.
13. Gunakan pakaian yang nyaman ketika bersepeda. Jangan pake scarf atau syal panjang, takutnya nyangkut di jari2 bisa gawat tuh.. Kalau menggunakan celana panjang, pakailah ‘pants clip’ agar celana ngga nyangkut dan kotor kena gigi depan/chainring.
14. Rawatlah sambungan rangka di seli. Bila mungkin bongkar dan berilah gemuk/grease yang baik. Ngga perlu pake grease yang tahan panas sampe sekian ratus derajat, engsel seli ngga akan sepanas itu kok walaupun dijemur matahari sekalipun. Pakai aja grease yang mengandung silikon, atau teflon, atau white lithium grease. Bila ngga mau repot bisa juga semprot menggunakan pelumas cair macam silikon spray. Sebenernya minyak singer bagus juga sih, tapi mudah hitam.
15. Hindari melumasi kabel rem dan shifter dengan oli bekas. Oli bekas mengandung banyak butiran/kotoran yang kecil yang malah bisa menghambat gesekan kabel (seret). Paling mudah murah dan bagus sebenernya gesekkan kabel2 tersebut ke lilin. Dijamin loncer deh, kabel murah+lilin ga kalah loncernya ama kabel bagus semacam XTR sekalipun.
16. Atur ketinggian shifter dan tuas rem, sesuaikan dengan posisi duduk anda. Tuas rem yang terlalu mendongak atau merunduk memperlambat reaksi jari anda meraih tuas rem, mengurangi kekuatan jari mengerem dan juga bikin pegel pergelangan tangan.
17. Periksa secara berkala kekencangan semua baut di sepeda, terutama seli yang sering dilipet-buka.
18. Setelah mencuci sepeda angin-anginkan dan jemur sepedanya agar air yang tersisa mudah menguap, lakukan hal ini terutama di sepeda yang bahannya besi (kromoli, hi-ten, dll) agar menghindari karat. Oiya cek juga lubang pembuangan air yang lazimnya berada di bawah BB, jangan sampe lubang itu tersumbat kotoran.
19. Dalam beberapa kasus, sepeda yang disimpan lama lebih cepat rusak daripada sepeda yang sering dipake. (Brom2 dipake yah om..!!)
20. Kalo mau simpan sepeda lama, usahakan melayang. Loh, melayang gimana?? Maksudnya roda jangan kena lantai secara langsung, frame jangan kena tembok, karet-karet (ban, grip) bungkus supaya ngga digigitin tikus.

Usahakan agar meletakkan sepeda kita ditempat yang setiap hari kita lalui, seperti garasi mobil atau sepeda motor yang setiap hari kita pakai untuk sekolah, kuliah atau bekerja, jadi paling tidak jika kita tidak sempat untuk bersepeda kita masih bisa melihat keadaannya walau sepintas.

Nah sekianlah tips-tips untuk merawat sepeda yang juga diambil dari beberapa sumber, smoga bisa bermanfaat bagi kita semua ya. khususnya bagi pengendarasepeda.

Sierra Lite|Sepeda citybike terbaru dari Polygon

Di tahun 2012 ini Polygon kembali meluncurkan generasi terbaru dari Sierra Alloy, yaitu Sierra Lite. Dibanding pendahulunya yang berharga 1.385.000, Sierra Lite lebih murah 60.000. Harganya hanya 1.325.000.

Pilihan warna Polygon Sierra Lite

Sierra Lite hadir dengan empat pilihan warna dengan warna dasar putih. Di situs Polygon hanya terdapat tiga gambar, yakni Green-White, Blue-White, Orange-White sementara Gray-White tidak ditampilkan. Kebetulan saat bermain-main ke Rodalink Cikarang aku menjumpai sepeda yang berwarna Gray-White.

Tertarik dengan kombinasi warnanya yang kalem aku memutuskan untuk membeli sepeda dengan warna tersebut. Ahirnya setelah inden hanya sehari saja aku mendapatkan Sierra Lite Gray-Whiteyang menurutku sepeda citybike terseksi.

The sexiest citybike.

Sepeda Polygon Sierra Lite warna Gray-White

Komponen Pada Sepeda

nama-nama komponen sepeda

Sebuah sepeda terdiri dari bermacam-macam komponen, kalau diurai satu persatu sepertinya bisa terdiri dari berpuluh-puluh komponen. Masing-masing komponen tersebut mempunyai fungsi dan nama masing-masing. Uniknya nama komponen tersebut bisa berbeda di setiap daerah. Mudguard dalam bahasa ontelis Indonesia biasa disebut dengan spakbor atau ada yang juga menyebutnya dengan selebor, Fork “diplesetkan” menjadi porok atau umum juga disebut dengan garpu. Negara Indonesia yang memliki beragam suku bahasa tentu mempunyai banyak  lagi istilah-istilah lain untuk penyebutan nama komponen sepeda yang belum terangkum dalam kamus peronthelan Indonesia.

Ada yang mau coba merangkum ?

Sepeda Terfavorit di Korea

Penomena sekarang ini tidak dapat dipungkiri lagi bahwa semakin menjamurnya penggemar artis Korea. Salah satunya itu terjadi di kampus Saya. Bisa dipastikan kampus anda atau sekolah anda pun menderita hal yang sama. Bagaikan Virus TB, penyebarannya begitu cepat. Mayoritas penggemarnya terpesona dengan penampilan dan gaya hidupnya.

Tapi, tahukah anda? bahwa penduduk Korea juga sangat menggemari sepeda. Oleh karena itu saya tertarik untuk menulis tentang sepeda apa yang banyak digemari oleh warga Korea sana.

Seperti yang kita ketahui, jenis sepeda yang sedang naik daun dewasa ini yaitu sepeda jenis Fixie. Sepeda jenis road ini ternyata sangat disukai juga oleh kaum hawa. Tak ketinggalan, kaum hawa ‘negeri gingseng’ pun tidak ketinggalan mengikuti tren yang melanda remaja-remaja kaum urban. Mulai dari dilatarbelakangi oleh kebutuhan sehari-hari hingga sekedar gaya hidup saja. Penggemar fixie wanita berlomba-lomba memiliki sepeda fixie dengan tampilan yang tentunya cantik, menarik, indah, dan mewakili atau mampu mengekspresikan sang pemilik sepeda tersebut.

Cantik, menarik dan indah, itulah image yang tebangun dari sepeda fixed gear oleh kaum hawa.

Dan tidak mau kalah oleh kaum adam yang menyukai freestyle, para wanita pun ikut menjajal trik yang bisa digali dari sepeda jenis fixed gear tersebut.

Cevelo S2 versi roadbike murah!

Cevelo S2 dan S3 ditawarkan lebih murah tapi berbeda komponen. Khususnya Fork depan dari S3 dengan disain fork biasa. Untuk Cevelo S2 dijual lengkap dengan komponen Shimano 105/Tiagra dengan paket $2850 termasuk wheelset Shimano R501.

Yang baru dari S2 dengan fitur routing kabel seperti gambar dibawah. Untuk frame saja dijual $2000.






website resmi cavelo

Camida frame full suspensi dari besi

Mungkin tidak lazim lagi frame sepeda gunung dibuat dari besi. Produsen sepeda lebih memilih bahan carbon atau aluminium untuk rangka sepeda. Caminade kembali mengunakan bahan besi, dibuat dari pabrikan Perancis membuat frame MTB, roadbike dan hardtail.

Camida One4all dibuat untuk pengunaan biasa sampai Enduro. Memiliki 2 disain dari 26 inch dengan fork depan 160-170mm, tipe 650b dengan fork 140-150mm. Hub sudah mengunakan standar Syntace X12 TA. Satu sepeda lengkap dijual $2950, selanjutnya bisa di upgrade untuk opsi komponen.

Keunikan disain sepeda One4all, bagian rear shock ditempatkan dibelakang tiang tengah sepeda. Sepeda ini ditawarkan dengan opsi custom, termasuk memberikan nama bagi pemiliknya.

Lapierre RAID FX - spesifikasi

Lapierre RAID FX

New Arrival 2013 Model

New Raid FX 2013 Model

Lapierre has always made an effort to adapt its know-how and technology to all budgets and riders. Now, more than ever, being able to join the select club of Lapierre riders is a real possibility. Continuing in this spirit, the new 2013 Raid models include a full -suspension and a hardtail using a new DB 7005 alloy frame with a compact, sporty geometry, available in 26’’ or 29’’. All models get new and improved components. For a relaxing ride or for your first race, you’ll find the bike you need to progress rapidly.

Frame :	RAID FX FULL SUSPENSION 120MM 7005DB INTEGRATED HEADSET
Shock absorber :	LP R HYDRAULIC DAMPING TECHNOLOGY
Fork :	SUNTOUR XCM LOCKOUT CUSTOM 120MM
Headset :	PT-1805H 1"1/8 INTEGRATED
Bottom Bracket :	CH51 68/127
Crankset :	SHIMANO M430 22X32X44 9S
Stem :	RAID BK/RED 70MM (S), 90MM (M,L,XL)
Seatpost :	RAID BK/RED AL 6061
Handlesbars :	RAID BK/RED 31.8X25X680MM
Front derailleur :	SHIMANO AFDM431L6 ALIVIO 9S
Rear derailleur :	SHIMANO RDM772 XT SHADOW 9S
Brakes :	SHIMANO BRM445 180MM (ASMRT30M 180)
Shifters :	SHIMANO SLM430 ALIVIO 3X9S
Saddle :	RAID BK/RED BY VELO
Wheel :	MACH1 SUBZERO + SHIMANO RM66 32H
Sprocket :	SHIMANO HG20 11-34 9S
Tires :	MICHELIN COUNTRY RACE'R 26X2.1
Weight :	14,9 kg
Size :	S,M,L,XL